Sunday, November 28, 2010

back.

back in madrid. the cold here is breathtaking. reminds me of the even colder chicago winter to come. made me want to get back on the plane, as awful as easyjet is to travel with. it helped that thoughts of returning to work got me sweating. not complaining. we had some great experiences. i drafted several blogposts while on the island but there was no wifi anywhere. got a ton of pics and clean clothes to look forward to. i've been wearing the same pair of jeans for 4 straight days. i should just throw out all my souvenirs and hang these jeans on my wall. i've got on me a piece of every place i've been, and large holes have formed in the crotch from the walking, or the cheap material. not complaining. received sad news upon our return. it always sends you reeling, but always makes you want to be better. i am truly lucky and deeply affected by everything i've been able to experience, happy or otherwise.
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timanfaya!

today was our last day in the islands, and we packed in our activities til the last hour before our flight.

made it a point to get up early for a run on the same path along the coastline that i did yesterday, past playa hablillo and playa bastian, past the row of bright yellow outdoor workout machines where an older woman was "steering the boat".

then i doubled back to playa hablillo, stripped down to my bathing suit and got in the water. it was cold, even though i was sweating from my run still. i got my head in eventually. there were dense schools of little silver fish darting around my feet. bub and javi came ambling along with the snorkeling goggles, bub looking groggy before 10a.

this beach was a living swimming pool! boulders encircled a piece of the shore like open arms, breaking incoming waves into gentle laps. beneath the calm surface was a giant breathing oceanarium, and we were in it, hanging with the fishes. the colors of the fishes were muted, lots of silver, some striped or whiskered, the sleek black fish with a single blue dot on its head were the coolest ones down there. dropping down into the aquarium once, i saw a huge silver fish about 3 feet long, looked vaguely sharklike. i popped up and tossed javi the goggles but it had swum out of sight too quickly. bub spotted it again by the boulders, and so began our hunt for the mammoth fish that could have been a shark. javi thinks it was a morena, not deadly like a shark but it would have attacked and not let go. too soon, it was time to move on to the day's next adventure. but on the way out, bub spotted an octopus! it fanned out its tentacles as it tried to escape from view, and was about the size of a large pasta dish. it latched onto a rock, coiled and camouflaged. i saw one of its yellow cat's eyes when i lay belly down in the sand and put my goggles just inside the water. we both locked in for a hard stare-off. i lost. it was a regal stone gargoyle and i had to go.

we returned, for the second morning, to the tiny cafe at the hotel for english breakfast served by a sweet older filipina who had been in the canaries for 25 years and plans to visit her family who lived all over the world, including chicago and winnipeg, when she retires in 2 years.

we had checked out and were on our way to timanfaya, the mountains of fire. i've never imagined a landscape born of a volcano could look like this. most of the national park area looked like mars. black, coarse, jagged rocks piled high, creating a terrain that would be treacherous to hike through. i wondered what advice bear grylls would have for surviving this place. but on the volcanic mountains themselves, the surfaces were smooth. molten liquid, once upon a time. i wanted to run my hands over it, to feel the difference. and the colors! once the bus took us high up near the summits so that we had aerial views, you could see what lava as hot as 800 degrees celcius can do... it was a black canvas painted with reds, greens, and oranges of all shades gradiating into each other like oil in water. it was unbelievable. the eruptions that created this alien landscape occurred in 1730.

our next and last stop was el golfo. it was another mountainy area next to the ocean, where we looked off of some impressive cliffs. el golfo's most unique feature was a pool of water that glowed neon green. it wasn't radioactive, just had the right combination of minerals to mix a batch of that awesome color. i wanted to go into one of the caves in search of a very large paintbrush. it would have just been one more thing i've never seen the earth do before this weekend. there was also a salt farm which i wish i had photographed but didnt.

it was already late afternoon. we had lunch at cafe azul, perched atop a cove, waves slamming into boulders just meters away as we dined on arroz caldoso. one dish had giant red king prawns with mussels and fish stewed with yellow rice. the other had cuttlefish and squid ink that blackened the rice and gave it a rich, earthy taste, kind of like the taste of liver, or chinese preserved duck eggs. both were effin amazing. we didnt take long to devour it, had nothing to do with finding out our flight was leaving in an hour and a half.

we jetted straight to the airport, then the check in lady told us our flight was delayed. oh well. i was sad to leave the island anyway.
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la graciosa, las conchas, and la ambar

11.27.2010

got up early with javi and bub to soak in the sunny morning. they went to the natural swimming pool that was playa jablillo and i ran down the shore path for 45 minutes. ching slept in. an english breakfast at the little hotel cafe followed.

today's plan was to take the ferry to the tiny island north of lanzarote, la graciosa. as we drove north to the ferry, the sky clouded over, the temp dropped and it was coming down. we gloomily anticipated another bad weather day that kept us from the fabled perfect beaches.

but once the ferry took us out from under the weather over lanzarote, it was perfect. la graciosa basked in full, glorious sunshine.

bicycling to the beaches had sounded like a good idea until the island guides said the roads were muddy. there was not a single paved road since it was a protected wildlife habitat. cars other than the official land rovers the tour guides drove were forbidden. there stood a single village on the island made of 23 houses. permission had to be gotten for each new house built and you or i couldnt just pick up and move to la graciosa.

the guide drove us through the very hilly terrain. bub noticed that there was no way in hell we would have made it on bikes. it was true. we were happy for the ride.

las conchas was insane. beautiful beach with wild, crashing waves and mountains all around. white caps like i've never seen! surfers would have loved it. the blue skies made the water look dangerously inviting. the guide said that this beach is normally very calm. well dang.

we snapped pics and drove some more. he was taking us somewhere we could swim. la ambar was paradise. the sand was powder soft, water clear blue, and not a single human being was there. well, except for this one guy in a bright orange shirt on a bike. rode past and disappeared.

we laid our stuff down in a shelter of rocks arranged in an arc to keep the wind out. the waves and undertow were pretty scary here too, but there was this small parceled off area where the rocks cut down the waves, forming a manageable pool. we just had to not lose all control and slam into said rocks. water was bearable. there were fish underneath, getting washed this way and that by the strong currents.

we laid out in our shelter, like kids playing house. we had brought a picnic of sandwiches and chips. thank god. we were hungry and there was nothing edible in a 5 mile radius unless we could catch fish by hand. while devouring our food, a giant rainbow appeared over the water. it was huge and vibrant, and we could see both ends on either side of the seascape. we were wowwing over it when we noticed the orange bicycle guy was back, sitting and staring at the rainbow too. moments later, he was gone again. he apparently was not having issues getting around on bike.

we were full, warm, and happy. it really was a perfect moment. it was just the four of us, the sun, the wildly, beautifully raging sea, and the fishes. ching and i hunted for shells in the divots in the rocks that became tiny ponds when the waves refilled them over and over, leaving behind microcosms of sealife. javi disappeared for a walk, and bub lazed in the shelter reading don quijote.

the land rover guy came back for us too soon. but we had to catch the last ferry at 5p. the ferry ride took about 20 minutes, as long as the sun took to set over la graciosa. the ferryman explained why the weather was always perfect on the southern side of that island. the mountaintops broke up any incoming storm clouds from the northwest, leaving the south with nothing but open skies, all the time. pretty fantastic.
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the beaches, the beaches

11.26.2010

we got out early today. headed straight to the beaches. we stopped first at this natural pool formed by rocks. it was windy but the water was absolutely a clear green. mountains surrounded us, and a town of white houses gleamed along the base of a mountain by the shoreline. we were all testing out the water for the first time. ching collected a shell which he later realized was still occupied by a crab. bub though it was too cold. we moved on.

our next stop was high in the mountains in a town called mirador del rio. there was this path that led to the cliff where we could see the neighbouring island and of course the mighty sea. the wind was blowing like a typhoon was hitting us! we fought the wind to get a few shots and ran back to the shelter of the car where bub had stayed.

we then headed to a bigger beach further north on the same highway. thru a couple of turns in the road that wound thru several towns, we found caleta de famara, a beach that stretched out for a few miles and was bookended by sizable mountains. lots of surfers out with the surfing schools. it was beautiful but still windy and the intermittent clouds over the sun made it just chilly enough so that we wanted to stay out of the water.

we then decided to break for lunch while the sky figured out it wanted to do. there was a restaurant just a half a mile from the beach. we all had some kind of fresh seafood. my squid was perfectly seasoned.

we continued on the highway. we decided the best idea was to head to the southern tip of the island where it would be less windy.

playa blanca was perfect. our first spot, papagayos, was a cove created by surrounding hills. javi and i got in the water for a while but ching and bub chickened out. really, you would have felt better if you had just gotten in. it was a really popular spot for nude beaching... :)

before the sun set, we trekked over to an adjacent beach, playa mujeres, the womens beach, where we played some more. then climbed to the top of the nearest cliff to see the sunset.

the day had been long and the road inland was dusty and rocky, but javi got us home to costa teguise safely. we had dinner, talked about going out to town for the clubs but were all really tired. we ended up just playing some pool at our hotel. tomorrow's plan is kayaking and snorkeling, if all goes well...
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lanzarote means lancelot

11.25.2010 first night in lanzarote. no thanksgiving here. how refreshing. we had, in madrid before leaving, seriously, a 6 course lunch at nippon taro. ejecutivo 2 from the daily lunch menu. by menu, they mean a special or a combination, usually a 2 or 3 course meal. best thanksgiving lunch ever. i could taste the macha in the te verde helado, green tea ice cream.

easyjet is not at all easy. javi says the flight delay today was shorter than usual. eff me. but i guess a 2 hour flight for 60 euros comes with other costs. we packed really carefully to avoid occurring carryon fees. i fit everything in my canvas daypack, almost.

galeon playa, our hotel, is in the town of arrecife. we have an ocean view from the balcony. i can hear it right now, across the parking lot and its gaudy lights, its waves beaching themselves on sand made of volcanic rocks. its wind visible in the sway of palm fronds. we walked along a couple of beaches after a better than expected chinese buffet two blocks from here. (the owners of course asked if we were from china, but at least he gave us free shots of some chinese wine, served in shot glasses that revealed naked people inside while the glasses were full. i got the naked asian lady and bub got the guy. this offering should take the place of fortune cookies in chinese restaurants.)

the moon is brilliant and ringed by a rainbow. not full, but the part that's shadowed is on top, not something i recall seeing often. we were comfortable outside with just long sleeved ts, and the water felt mild on my feet. excited to see the ocean tomorrow morning. maybe a run.

we had a drink at a bar filled with old people. it was insane. one man karaoke on a stool in front of itunes visualizations, not a head bopping in the room, and british rock song after british rock song that none of us knew. he had a good voice. sounded like travis, so i just imagined they were all travis songs...

i am in the remotest place on the planet i've ever been, and i feel it. thoughts of home and people i know tug at me like the tides. but its exciting. wherever my feet fall in front of me, i feel as if the ground is forming beneath it, like ink drops blotting on white paper, making something where there was nothing, painting new vistas, new people and new language into existence. you don't know what you don't know. truly.

and plans we do have, for the next three days! lots of sun, ocean, and hopefully fishies swimming around our faces in the pristine water.
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Sunday, November 21, 2010

A Madrileno Sunday

this post has been in draft form since sunday. since bub and javi were both off, we got up late and eventually went down to baccio around the corner for lunch. we shared this dish that was like paella but with macaroni instead of rice, and seafood, with lots of cafe con leche, and cervezas for javi. we were all tired from the night out but cheerful and talkative, juxtaposed against the drizzly, contemplative grey sky, as we made our way into the city center. we walked down what would have been the ben franklin parkway in philly, and in chicago, the stretch of columbus avenue from millenium park through the art institute down to the field museum - madrid´s museum campus. ending at the front entrance of the prado, the line of visitors waiting to enter wrapped around and disappeared behind the massive building. there was a renoir exhibit going on. we hiked around the back, around to an adjacent old church that was under restoration, towards the stately entrance to retiro park.

i had thought, wrongly, that we came to retiro last year. this park is endless and stunning. 4 miles around, says javi. treelined paths, fountains, pools, ponds, ducks and strange, fat, black spotted geese, a museum, a recently created memorial to those who died in the bombing at atocha station several years ago. 200 cypress and olive trees planted upon a sculpted, landscaped mound carved out of the surround park by a moat and reconnected with japanese style wooden bridges. a crushed gravel path twirled meditatively up towards the summit of the monument. retiro park is madrid´s central park. or maybe it would be an insult to say that. i would definitely have remembered being here before. night settled in as we approached the edge of the park and saw the buildings through the veil of tiny raindrops materializing under each lamp as we passed.

we walked through the fuencarral, a network of shops and restaurants that veined out from plaza mayor, its heart, with a luminary christmas tree erected and ready for december 1st when it will be lit. each artery of the fuencarral teemed with bodies moving in every direction, jostled along by other fervent bodies. people weaved along to experience the sights, the stores, the peddlers with their shows, sleight of hand, and cheaply made souvenirs...and other people. there were the usual clothing stores- h&m, mango, etc. and then there was desigual. the colors and designs of just the flagship store alone overloaded the senses. much too colorful and busy for my taste, but the clothing was well made and imaginatively designed. alice in wonderland imaginative. we spent a long time in there marveling at everything, and trying to find pieces that we would actually wear. i found a couple things, but none that i desperately wanted for the prices.

so, really, the entire day was leading up to. one. thing. harry potter! in its version originale- english. i think it was before i stepped off the plane in madrid that bub gushed about it opening the day i was arriving. and when we purchased tickets online earlier on sunday, bub and i joked about whether to ask the boys if they wanted to come to the movie, and then decided that, being the extraneous males of the lot, they really didn´t have much say anyway. we told them around lunch time that we had tickets. they didn´t put up a fight.

ok, so, in case anyone hasn´t seen harry potter and plan to, this is your SPOILER ALERT! ok great. i enjoyed it. it fulfilled my harry potter need for this year. and really cool that i got to see it in madrid. but um, the last book really could have been one movie. not that i´ve read it, but the middle of this one was reeeaally drawn out. what is the deal with all the walking, and the camping, and the awkward romance? i enjoy all of those things in moderation. just get to the effin point already. the sequence of events consisted of hiking, concealing enchanted jewelry, nightly stakeouts (staring into the dark for long periods of time), making out, lovers´ quarrels, and repeat. at least three times. it reminded me of a couple of other movies i´ve seen... i said to bub as we walked out-- they could have called this one harry potter: brokeback lord of the rings. we laughed about it all the way home.

pixies

Goya Station: where we let off for the Shakira concert
(will upload with right side up eventually)
what the deuce??? been eating these for breakfast for a couple days.
he really should have bought that.
found at muji: what does one do with a holey spoon?

Saturday, November 20, 2010

hips don't lie!

whoa! last night's shakira concert was increible! huge stadium concert - where they usually play basketball or something, but she filled the whole stadium with her energy and joy and.... her hip shaking. omg. we didnt get close enough to get doused with her hip sweat, but i can say the whole place was completely entranced by her hips. it was just bub and me who went, due to a series of unfortunate events... we couldn't find a scalper, but bub's friend isabelle was sick, so she sold us her ticket. ching said he was fine with not going... so it was a tumor twin event. she was amazing... every minute of the show was entertaining - even going on 36 hours without having slept, i didn't nod off until her first encore song, which was a ballad, but i was fully awake for "hips don't lie" that followed, and "waka waka", which ended her show with the very responsible and caring message of world peace and philanthropy for africa. anyway, she deserves every bit of fame with her name on it... she flamencoed, she bellydanced, she shook. them. hips. she doesn't ever need backup dancers, but she pulled some girls onto the stage to dance with her, one of whom had the same hair and outfit almost, and who did shakira's moves perfectly... i'm sure she'd been practicing that since the day shakira's first video was on out whichever mtv channel shows videos...

and i'm sure it was that much more awesome of an experience because it was in madrid. only annoyance was an old lady behind me who repeatedly told me to sit down and even pushed on my shoulder when i didn't.... whoa, lady, you clearly missed your nap today. hubby beside her did not jump in... he knew better.

then,

slept for about 11 hours, until bub woke me up (that never happens!). when javi got home from training, we took the bus across the damn country to the best cantonese restaurant around, according to bub. it was good. we had dim sum and dinner all in one. when we cleaned out all of the plates on the table, we realized we didn't get our veggie dish, at which point we all (me n bub) agreed we could eat more, so then half a roasted duck was ordered as well. i felt so fat. oh well.

it was dark out by the time we left the restaurant to go get a coffee and meet javi's yogi friend victor. on the way, we ran into a protest. they were protesting socialism. or was it antisocialism they didn't want? not sure. i snapped a pic and a guy put his hand over my camera. oh please. did you not see the white guy with the video cam over there?

we walked around for a while in the masses and bustling streets. i asked, where is everyone going? and javi says, nowhere. they're just out walking. i mean, old ladies were out, just hanging about. i tried to remember if i've ever seen seniors in the states doing the same and just couldn't. not at 9pm at night. we went to a shissa (hookah) bar and talked yoga with victor who enlightened me on some really interesting facts about bikram yoga...hm...

spent the rest of the night at a discotheque called la boca de lobo, the mouth of the wolf. interesting mix of music by a talented dj... 'come together' over an amy winehouse beat, 'bad' remixed as funk, ending with a really cool triphoppy version of tribe called quest's 'can i kick it.








Friday, November 19, 2010

bienvenido a madrid

we made it to madrid! blogging from javier and bub's place now...

the flight wasn't terrible. i slept as much as i could, in between dinner, in-flight movies, and breakfast. i basically passed out as soon as i got in my seat and didn't awake until dinner, which was a braised beef with green beans and scallopped potatoes. yum! i had a full meal at wok 'n roll just before boarding so this was second dinner. in-flight movie was Salt. helloooo angie! a kids movie followed but the ipod came out and i slept some more. another hour and a half later, i was woken up by breakfast... what the hell? i know we're doing a little time travel, but just because you serve me a blueberry muffin, fruit cup, ham and cheese croissant, and oj in the middle of the night (3 hours after dinner) doesn't make it morning! but i ate it of course, then slept some more...

i was next to a group of high school students from boston. they were the best behaved high schoolers i've ever had to sit next to for 7 hours. how do they get to go to spain anyway?

madrid barajas must be the hugest structure ever made. by the time i got to the meeting spot, i felt like i had been carrying a person on my back.

plan for today is to have some lunch, hang out aimlessly for a while, then to the shakira concert! ching and i don't have tix. we hope to luck out on some scalping.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

over boston

east coast sunset over some waterway... anyone know what it is?
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The Sequel

en route to Europe with Ching again! hoping this trip will be much more laid back. just 3 destinations- madrid, barthelona, and lanzarotes in the canaries. slightly higher tech too... i didn't have a droid to blog from last time.

at the airport way early (thank you spongebob for the ride!) but security took a year and finally at gate h15. i must have passed at least 4 starbucks just between here and security. madness. i didn't stop. think i'm over starbucks. bypassed mickey ds too and sucking down a really sugary smoothie. head explosion impending. 28 mins til boarding. connecting flight in boston to madrid. is there anywhere to go there during my 2 hour layover? bub is getting us at the airport. 2 separate meeting locations in a foreign land. hope no one gets lost. not so soon anyway.
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