omg, we made it to madrid. so, the original plan was to train it into marseille, then get a rental car and drive to the nearest campsite, which i had mapped out. but there's some vague holiday weekend going on and everything - cars and hotels - are booked until monday. even the trains are not running as scheduled, seemingly. the guy told us we wouldn't arrive in madrid until 7am monday, 5 hours before we should be on the plane for marrakech. this is unacceptable. so i called bub and had her book us the next flight out of marseille, which turned out to be not until 11:35am today. we thought we'd just stay over at the airport but it was the size of of a pinhead, and ching got us a cheap hotel with a shuttle to it instead.
so now we're in madrid. spent an awesome evening with bub and javi at the local hang outs... we bought some beer in a can from the chinese shop, then more from the indian guy who kept coming back to us, even hours later. we stopped in a club in la chueca, the gay and lesbian area, and hung out with some people who had this fascination with people from thailand, which we were not, but they didn't know the difference. then we had a late meal and cabbed it home. so tired, and quite drunk. our flight to tangier is at 1pm. may not be posting for a while, since we'll be in the desert for about 6 days...
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Friday, May 29, 2009
chickening out in the alps
so it`s already our second night in Interlaken in the Swiss Alps. needless to say, it`s beautiful and pristine here. we arrived yesterday afternoon and found a campsite not too far from the train, or the lake, and the mountains surround us. we set up camp and went grocery shopping, then went to sign up for some outdoor activities. we decided on canyoning, which is like white water rafting, without a raft. so you go down rapids and waterfalls and pools with just a life jacket. we picked the extreme one, which was supposed to last 7 hours!
well, last night, after a nice evening spent chatting by the giant campfire with our neighbors, who were from scotland originally, and now australia (they`re on leave and have been traveling for 3 months, with 8 more to go!), we crawled into the tents. i woke up because i was freezing in my sleeping bag. i couldn`t even move to put more clothes on. i looked over at ching and he was completely cocooned up in his sleeping bag. i crawled in deeper and pulled the drawstring to close up the top. ching woke me up in the morning with the question, "do you really think we should still do canyoning?" my answer was absolutely "no".
we decided dry sports was the way to go. so, we did hang gliding instead! it was awesome! i was nervous, but it turned out to be way too short of a ride. these australian guys have set up shop here and take people up all summer long. it was a splurge, but well worth it. in the morning, we are headed for warmer climates - the south of france.
well, last night, after a nice evening spent chatting by the giant campfire with our neighbors, who were from scotland originally, and now australia (they`re on leave and have been traveling for 3 months, with 8 more to go!), we crawled into the tents. i woke up because i was freezing in my sleeping bag. i couldn`t even move to put more clothes on. i looked over at ching and he was completely cocooned up in his sleeping bag. i crawled in deeper and pulled the drawstring to close up the top. ching woke me up in the morning with the question, "do you really think we should still do canyoning?" my answer was absolutely "no".
we decided dry sports was the way to go. so, we did hang gliding instead! it was awesome! i was nervous, but it turned out to be way too short of a ride. these australian guys have set up shop here and take people up all summer long. it was a splurge, but well worth it. in the morning, we are headed for warmer climates - the south of france.
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
happy belated, christian!
hey, happy birthday, christian, if you're reading this blog! wish i could upload a b-day shot for you, but i hope you had a good one anyway...
hhhrrmmm, sex-xxyyyy
i went for a run this morning up past the sacre coeur and found the streets of montmartre. it's more of what i was expecting of montmartre... cafes, theaters, and artists about. though more businessmen/women than artists, signs of the legendary bohemian hangout are still evident. i zigzagged through streets a bit, careful to look for landmarks to find my way back. i ran past a geeky guy on his bike who looked my way and said, "hhrrmmm, se-xyyy" in stereotypical french fashion and i just bust out laughing!
we visited d'Orsay after checking into a different hotel closer to the train - for our early train to bern. exiting the train station, we headed down a street with many "hotel" signs. we entered the first that we saw, but the price was too high. seconds later, a middle-aged woman accosted us and pointed to the "vacancies" sign above her shop door. questioningly, we followed her, and she offered us a room for 38 euro for the night. perfect and easy! though it crossed my mind that, come nightfall, some of our neighbors could turn out to be prostitutes.
back to d'Orsay, the rick steves walking tour, which took us through the most important pieces in the museum, was excellent. otherwise, you could spend the whole day there to see everything.
now we're at the bibliotheque du francois mitterand looking up travel details for the next leg of the trip. cool library, though the buildings look like a set of 4 enormous filing cabinets rising from the ground.
still, no access to upload shots, though i will have plenty of them... 10 gigs or so already.
we visited d'Orsay after checking into a different hotel closer to the train - for our early train to bern. exiting the train station, we headed down a street with many "hotel" signs. we entered the first that we saw, but the price was too high. seconds later, a middle-aged woman accosted us and pointed to the "vacancies" sign above her shop door. questioningly, we followed her, and she offered us a room for 38 euro for the night. perfect and easy! though it crossed my mind that, come nightfall, some of our neighbors could turn out to be prostitutes.
back to d'Orsay, the rick steves walking tour, which took us through the most important pieces in the museum, was excellent. otherwise, you could spend the whole day there to see everything.
now we're at the bibliotheque du francois mitterand looking up travel details for the next leg of the trip. cool library, though the buildings look like a set of 4 enormous filing cabinets rising from the ground.
still, no access to upload shots, though i will have plenty of them... 10 gigs or so already.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
the church brings us full circle.
today felt like a looong day, even though we got up a little later than usual. there were whispers of some national strike that would keep everything closed down today, but we saw nothing of the sort.
we started back at the notre dame since we hadn't seen the inside. i'm so glad we did - it's amazing! as visitors walked around the side aisles, a mass (in french - how cool and they were chanting!) started in the center... a priest with 8 other monsigneurs or something. i couldn't help but feel awe start to stir up inside... obviously, it isn't the vatican, but i could've believed it was.
sorry, folks, still no photos. these internet coin machines don't allow it. i totally wish i could share though.
continuing southwards, we then visited the catacombs, to which they moved a bunch of bones from other cemeteries because they were spreading disease. this former quarry and then prison runs almost a mile in length beneath the city. piles and piles of skulls and bones surround you as you walk through the tunnel.
then we found chinatown. not much to tell about there. no one would ever miss paris chinatown. we did eat at a pho place, and i think we both felt more like a foreigner there than anywhere else we've been. and what is it about europeans and the lack of water service? it's like we have to beg to get a drink of water! i don't get it.
maybe there's a shortage, because these folks don't bathe enough either. i'm sorry, but b.o. is not in fashion.
we looked for the louvre next. got some nice shots there. it was closed, but we didn't intend on entering anyway. i can forgo the mona lisa to see d'orsay instead tomorrow, since ching's already been there. we then walked along the boulevard whose name i don't remember, along champs d'elysee towards the arc du triomphe. what followed was a long, painful, endless walk towards the grand arch, which is so big that the notre dame purportedly can fit underneath. so of course we had to see it up close. we were probably 15 minutes from it when we hit the last metro stop and gave up on it. the arch looked lovely from where we were.
it was 10p by the time we got to montmarte, which is where our hotel is. we decided to stick it out, making a last stop at the sacre coeur, which sits at the highest hill in paris and from where you can get a great view of the city. we climbed the many, many steps up to the church, just as we had decended into the depths of the catacombs earlier. sacre coeur did not disappoint. a lot of people were headed up there, and not only tourists. locals with wine and music gathered on the church steps to celebrate the sunset (yes, at 10.30p!). it was a fiesta up there, the liveliest place we'd visited so far in paris! a complete contrast from the notre dame. a rastafarian with a drum and cd player banged out the macarena while ladies danced... i was waiting for someone to fall off those steps. oh and the view of the city was gorgeous.
on the walk back to the hotel, i wanted to hit mickey d's, but it had closed 2 mins earlier. probably for the better.
we started back at the notre dame since we hadn't seen the inside. i'm so glad we did - it's amazing! as visitors walked around the side aisles, a mass (in french - how cool and they were chanting!) started in the center... a priest with 8 other monsigneurs or something. i couldn't help but feel awe start to stir up inside... obviously, it isn't the vatican, but i could've believed it was.
sorry, folks, still no photos. these internet coin machines don't allow it. i totally wish i could share though.
continuing southwards, we then visited the catacombs, to which they moved a bunch of bones from other cemeteries because they were spreading disease. this former quarry and then prison runs almost a mile in length beneath the city. piles and piles of skulls and bones surround you as you walk through the tunnel.
then we found chinatown. not much to tell about there. no one would ever miss paris chinatown. we did eat at a pho place, and i think we both felt more like a foreigner there than anywhere else we've been. and what is it about europeans and the lack of water service? it's like we have to beg to get a drink of water! i don't get it.
maybe there's a shortage, because these folks don't bathe enough either. i'm sorry, but b.o. is not in fashion.
we looked for the louvre next. got some nice shots there. it was closed, but we didn't intend on entering anyway. i can forgo the mona lisa to see d'orsay instead tomorrow, since ching's already been there. we then walked along the boulevard whose name i don't remember, along champs d'elysee towards the arc du triomphe. what followed was a long, painful, endless walk towards the grand arch, which is so big that the notre dame purportedly can fit underneath. so of course we had to see it up close. we were probably 15 minutes from it when we hit the last metro stop and gave up on it. the arch looked lovely from where we were.
it was 10p by the time we got to montmarte, which is where our hotel is. we decided to stick it out, making a last stop at the sacre coeur, which sits at the highest hill in paris and from where you can get a great view of the city. we climbed the many, many steps up to the church, just as we had decended into the depths of the catacombs earlier. sacre coeur did not disappoint. a lot of people were headed up there, and not only tourists. locals with wine and music gathered on the church steps to celebrate the sunset (yes, at 10.30p!). it was a fiesta up there, the liveliest place we'd visited so far in paris! a complete contrast from the notre dame. a rastafarian with a drum and cd player banged out the macarena while ladies danced... i was waiting for someone to fall off those steps. oh and the view of the city was gorgeous.
on the walk back to the hotel, i wanted to hit mickey d's, but it had closed 2 mins earlier. probably for the better.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Grande Paris
paris is only an hour's train ride from brussels. we did have a train delay because we didn't reserve a seat beforehand - sat in the bruxelles-midi station for 3 hours. i walked out into the street and there wasn't much to see... except a lot of smelly hobos. reminded me of nyc by battery park where there's not much but buildings under construction.
the station's interior was much more interesting - people of all shapes and colors, mostly french-speaking, and many carrying baguette sandwiches, walked by. much more colorful than train stations i've see in the states. i wasn't completely bored there.
our hotel is in the northern part of town... kinda shady. ching said it was like kensington (philly). i don't think it's as bad as that. we got right to the sights - first, notre dame, just around the perimeter since it was closed. then we walked along the seine, the latin quarter, ile de st. louis, and all along the rive gauche - the left bank. at nightfall, we took the metro to eiffel and got through the line to go up. eiffel is more impressive than i thought it would be. bigger. it was really awesome, actually. the huge, beautiful marble bases on which the four legs rest were also a surprise. and the city seen from the tower is just beautiful. there are no skyscrapers, just one tallish, blocky building that i could see in the entire city.
as soon as we descended eiffel, a mad thunderstorm rolled in, with veiny lightning. it was great - summer storm...
the station's interior was much more interesting - people of all shapes and colors, mostly french-speaking, and many carrying baguette sandwiches, walked by. much more colorful than train stations i've see in the states. i wasn't completely bored there.
our hotel is in the northern part of town... kinda shady. ching said it was like kensington (philly). i don't think it's as bad as that. we got right to the sights - first, notre dame, just around the perimeter since it was closed. then we walked along the seine, the latin quarter, ile de st. louis, and all along the rive gauche - the left bank. at nightfall, we took the metro to eiffel and got through the line to go up. eiffel is more impressive than i thought it would be. bigger. it was really awesome, actually. the huge, beautiful marble bases on which the four legs rest were also a surprise. and the city seen from the tower is just beautiful. there are no skyscrapers, just one tallish, blocky building that i could see in the entire city.
as soon as we descended eiffel, a mad thunderstorm rolled in, with veiny lightning. it was great - summer storm...
bruges
we made it to bruges, after 4 train connections -through hertagobosch, antwerp, and ghent - and 5 hours on the road. we got here late afternoon and walked around town. the was a huge carnival going on, rather obnoxious for such an otherwise serene and low-key town. then we stumbled onto a neighborhood festival with live music, beer, and brats. the perfect welcome to belgium :) although, it was kinda surreal when the cover band started playing melissa etheridge songs and other american faves, like "kids in america". the crowd was singing along - "we're da keeds een ah-meh-lee-kah!"
we walked along the canal that cuts through town. there is also one surrounding the city, like a moat. along the eastern arc, we found several windmills - retired, but still cool! our hotel is Passage, a really old, creepy building. in fact, after dinner at the restaurant in our hotel, i went out with camera and tripod back to the belfry in the center of town to get some night shots. then i ventured onto a quieter side street, and it got really creepy because all around me was dead silence. not a thing moved or made a sound, and only once in a while did a couple appear, on a "late" stroll. i didn't linger, feeling the habitual caution take over and advise me not to be out on an empty street at night, though it's probably the safest place in the world.
leaving for paris now...
we walked along the canal that cuts through town. there is also one surrounding the city, like a moat. along the eastern arc, we found several windmills - retired, but still cool! our hotel is Passage, a really old, creepy building. in fact, after dinner at the restaurant in our hotel, i went out with camera and tripod back to the belfry in the center of town to get some night shots. then i ventured onto a quieter side street, and it got really creepy because all around me was dead silence. not a thing moved or made a sound, and only once in a while did a couple appear, on a "late" stroll. i didn't linger, feeling the habitual caution take over and advise me not to be out on an empty street at night, though it's probably the safest place in the world.
leaving for paris now...
success!
it's been a couple of days but the misplaced bike story must be concluded. we did find it without too much effort, thanks to ching's directional instincts. a series of vaguely familiar landmarks led us to the church fence where we left it. AND, to my surprise, the church was Oud Kerk, probably the oldest church in Amsterdam. it's now a space for exhibitions and there was the World Tour '09 photojournalism exhibit going on. it was awesome!
we also found windmills that day! well, only 2, and one was a museum in the town of leiden. not much else to see there except for giant pannenkoeken with cheese and tomatoes - the native food of the area. it was ok, a little bland.
the daylight lasts until about 10p here, and it's not totally dark til 11, so you feel like you want to keep going til you drop. we got in early that night to get ready for bruges early the next day.
we also found windmills that day! well, only 2, and one was a museum in the town of leiden. not much else to see there except for giant pannenkoeken with cheese and tomatoes - the native food of the area. it was ok, a little bland.
the daylight lasts until about 10p here, and it's not totally dark til 11, so you feel like you want to keep going til you drop. we got in early that night to get ready for bruges early the next day.
Saturday, May 23, 2009
how are we gonna find our bike?!
so, after a full day of the zoo, museums, riding around on the tandem mac bike, and finally a hearty dinner, we ventured into a very orange and tibetan-themed cafe close to the leidsplein area called "rokery". it was ornate with buddhist designs and figures all over its walls, and had comfy pillows on the floors against the walls. it had a full menu of coffees and teas. then they had another menu featuring items like a delicious, chocolatey muffin, and other things with names like "amnesia haze" and "white ox", which was an award winner. it was quite an experience just to be able to pick these things off of a menu.
in summary, the rest of the night went like this: we left rokery, walked down the block, decided to head to the red light district, so we got the bike and meandered across town without once looking at the map; we were in the midst of the red light district before we knew it; parked the bike by the "i love you shop", and wandered amidst drunken crowds and red-lit, curtained windows with half-dressed women writhing in front of them. after what seemed like hours we decided we'd better find the bike and head to the hostel. that proved more difficult than expected. giving up on the bike, we decided to take the train back to waterlooplein. we did that, then began walking towards what we thought was the hostel, but realized to our surprise, that we ended up back at centraal station! hmm.... it's a circular town - you start at one end, and if you're not careful, you can end up where you began!
the night was marked by phrases like, "hm, i could go for some...." and, "do you know where we are?"
off now to go find the bike...
in summary, the rest of the night went like this: we left rokery, walked down the block, decided to head to the red light district, so we got the bike and meandered across town without once looking at the map; we were in the midst of the red light district before we knew it; parked the bike by the "i love you shop", and wandered amidst drunken crowds and red-lit, curtained windows with half-dressed women writhing in front of them. after what seemed like hours we decided we'd better find the bike and head to the hostel. that proved more difficult than expected. giving up on the bike, we decided to take the train back to waterlooplein. we did that, then began walking towards what we thought was the hostel, but realized to our surprise, that we ended up back at centraal station! hmm.... it's a circular town - you start at one end, and if you're not careful, you can end up where you began!
the night was marked by phrases like, "hm, i could go for some...." and, "do you know where we are?"
off now to go find the bike...
Friday, May 22, 2009
arrival and first day
we made it! despite a near-disastrous (non-) departure. i won't tell it here since i still like to believe it never happened. it will suffice to say that i found a way to slaughter the time that i would have spent idling between flights.
our first day in amsterdam was long as we bumbled our way through trains and unfamiliar streets in search of, first, our hostel, which was the Hotelboat Amsterdam on Pier 3 of the Oosterdok area. It's small but clean and extremely friendly, run by a guy named Hertzen who said we could call him Handsome since it'd be easier for our American tongues.
i would post photos, but we are at the local Bibliotheek and can't plug in any hardware. but we'll make it to an internet cafe soon enough. this library is sleek and modern and runs on macs. it looks like they designed the space so they could have these pretty machines sitting around.
anyway, we did a LOT of walking yesterday. we didn't have an agenda and instead explored wherever our sore feet could take us. and there is a lot to see. picturesque canals intersect every few streets; gorgeous old buildings that look like they house important goings-ons but are just malls or apartments. beautiful parks and quaint old homes line the streets where people and their cute little dogs run freely, off-leash and obedient. and the BIKES! i swear they must outnumber the population by the score! everywhere there are people on bikes, and then there are clusters parked on every available fence, square, and sidewalk space. i think some of them have become permanent fixtures in the landscape, because they look rusty and old and virtually unrideable. it didn't take too long to figure out whenever we were walking on the bike paths because bikers never hesitated to try to run over us! it is heaven for bikers!
well, we gotta get outside and explore some more. planning to hit some museums and other spots around town... then, perhaps a cafe and live music later tonight...
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
t minus 13 hours
hey! in 13 hours, i'll be on a plane heading to europe, with my bud ching. no, that monkey isn't ching. that's muunkay, who's also coming with. he came from the cube wall dividing dan and stu, and aspires to be mascot for our band, the monkey junkholes. so he's coming along for some glam shots. muunkay's ready, already has his backpack on!
quick plug for the monkey junkholes: if you were the high school kid who always wanted to be in a band, but could never quite figure out how to read music, or carry a tune, or play a real instrument, you can be in our band!!
ok, i need to make myself go to bed. i wanted to get this blog going, and hope that it will be filled with fun and scenic places and things we're doing throughout the next 24 days!
i won't really believe i'm going to all the places that i've been reading and hearing about, and plotting on a map for months until i set foot on it. let the journey begin...
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